Good-Old Manners

January 24, 2011 § Leave a comment

Joan Smalls' entrance at Tom Ford's show

I guess the feelings of every fashionista who didn’t have his or her name inked on Tom Ford’s comeback show’s strict guest list were nearly the same. It goes something like this: both thrilled by Mr. Ford’s ransom of this old-fashioned, departed kind of presentation and eager for some pictorial review. Months went by and we had hints from Vogue, Vogue Paris, V and a few other magazines until we could scrutinize the proper catwalk pictures.

Apart from the super-private mood, Mr. Ford’s show was different from “normal” ones in many aspects. There wasn’t a standard hairdo or make-up. Each model/muse was allowed to let her own individuality free on the catwalk. This collection was what fashion is actually supposed to be: a celebration of each woman’s inner beauty.

By making fashion smaller, Ford made it much bigger. It’s unlikely that the whole industry is taking Mr. Ford’s attitude towards his business as a role model. But anyway, that September night was a delightful pause for fashion’s mad, mad world.

Apologizing for my absence

January 24, 2011 § Leave a comment

Dear readers,

Unfortunately, I was forced to take a break from the blog. So don’t be surprised if my few next posts feel a little old. Stay tuned.

À La Mode

Welcome 2011!

January 1, 2011 § 1 Comment

Dear readers,

May 2011 be an outstanding year for fashion and also for all of you.

Cheers from À La Mode.

A Potential Icon

December 31, 2010 § Leave a comment

My favourite of Rihanna's incursions into the editorial world, photographed by Craig McDean and styled by Lori Goldstein for the February 2010 issue of W.

Since Rihanna bleached her hair and got that spiky cut as a part of her new look for the Rated R album, I started to notice a great unexplored fashion potential to the singer. With the right grooming and support, she could become a contemporary counterpart for Grace Jones’ daring, edgy looks in the 80s.

The industry seemed to notice that, too. She turned into a regular in major magazines, tapping the pages of W, Vogue Italia and Interview, attended to Chanel, Givenchy and Jean-Paul Gaultier shows, to name a few, is scoring several best-dressed lists (Anna Dello Russo’s included) and now there are galloping rumours that she’s about to launch her own clothing line scouted by Topshop.

But in order to become iconic, one has to bear a strong, recognizable approach – and I think her blonde period was an auspicious opportunity for such accomplishment. Even if she managed some nice outfits with her current ginger hair, her previous look was a more promising canvas to push the boundaries of fashion.

The Perfect Balance

December 22, 2010 § 1 Comment

Arizona Muse stars Yves Saint Laurent's Spring 2011 campaign snapped by Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin

I’ve always felt like Pilati’s achievements as the creative director for the YSL house were never fairly acknowledged. It might be true that his trajectory up to now has been irregular. But he has proved his talent well enough through exquisite architectonic-shaped dresses and sharp tailoring. And when he delivers a striking collection, it’s a reliable source for fresh, soulful ideas.

First, because his unrestful search for what feels modern is admirable. Pilati’s not just making clothes. His efforts aim at a much grander purpose: attempting to build a whole new concept, a fashion proposal for the twenty-first century. And as every emerging style needs a muse, I think Pilati’s “new tribe of fashion” is precisely personified by Giovanna Battaglia.

Second, for the designer’s ability for pairing the clean, straight outlines that lead his designs and instantly provides them a contemporary quality with an ancient sense of embellishment that seems to be indispensable to keep the essence of fashion alive.

Where I feel the designer has failed in previous seasons was by trying to pay homage to certain aspects of Saint Laurent’s oeuvre that didn’t fit his vision. With this collection, Pilati reached the perfect balance between Saint Laurent’s legacy and his own standpoint. Such attributes place him among the designers who are likely to define the newborn decade’s aesthetic.

The (Real) Best-Dressed List

December 20, 2010 § 1 Comment

Anna Dello Russo, unarguably the year's fashion star.

For a fashion insider, celeb-guided best-dressed lists might feel, let’s say, incomplete. But Style.com wisely filled the gap for 2010 by appointing top street style photographer Tommy Ton to conduct his own catalogue. It’s pretty exciting to see such an influential force embracing fashion at its core, where it reveals to be the most inspired – and inspiring.

Au Revoir, Carine

December 17, 2010 § Leave a comment

Iris Strubegger shot by Mert & Marcus in one of the last Vogue Paris issues under Carine's tenure

First of all, I must say I’m shocked. Since McQueen’s death, no other fashion news has shaken me so violently. Just like it was impossible to conceive his eponymous brand without the designer’s genius, it has become unthinkable to dissociate Carine and Vogue Paris through these ten years Madame Roitfeld has set the rules for the most cutting-edge fashion magazine of present days.

She has dared to do what many has refused to, stepped into unexplored and feared spaces. She has fought PETA and the anti-smoking crowd. In short, she has been the enfant terrible of the editorial industry. And how many people in fashion you can still call enfants terribles?

All we can do now is pray to God that it will be worth it. That whoever’s taking Carine’s throne (Emmanuelle Alt and Aliona Doletskaya are predictably the rumoured names) will be able keep Vogue Paris’s relevance. And that whatever the project she’s setting up (heading to W would be just too delicious to be true), it will grant us some super-glossy, indecently sensual and politically incorrect imagery. Otherwise, the task will be left for a very few fellas.

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