December 22, 2010 § 1 Comment
I’ve always felt like Pilati’s achievements as the creative director for the YSL house were never fairly acknowledged. It might be true that his trajectory up to now has been irregular. But he has proved his talent well enough through exquisite architectonic-shaped dresses and sharp tailoring. And when he delivers a striking collection, it’s a reliable source for fresh, soulful ideas.
First, because his unrestful search for what feels modern is admirable. Pilati’s not just making clothes. His efforts aim at a much grander purpose: attempting to build a whole new concept, a fashion proposal for the twenty-first century. And as every emerging style needs a muse, I think Pilati’s “new tribe of fashion” is precisely personified by Giovanna Battaglia.
Second, for the designer’s ability for pairing the clean, straight outlines that lead his designs and instantly provides them a contemporary quality with an ancient sense of embellishment that seems to be indispensable to keep the essence of fashion alive.
Where I feel the designer has failed in previous seasons was by trying to pay homage to certain aspects of Saint Laurent’s oeuvre that didn’t fit his vision. With this collection, Pilati reached the perfect balance between Saint Laurent’s legacy and his own standpoint. Such attributes place him among the designers who are likely to define the newborn decade’s aesthetic.